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How to use the connecting rod bolt
The connecting rod bolt is an important fastener of the engine. If it is loose or broken, it may cause a blister accident. Therefore, in the process of using the connecting rod bolt, it must pay attention to its inspection, assembly, locking, maintenance and prevention of fracture. First, before the inspection of the connecting rod bolt Connecting rod bolts are generally made of high-quality alloy steel by quenching and processing and precision machining, have high strength and toughness, strict requirements in the thread level, shape and position tolerance. It belongs to special bolts and cannot be replaced by ordinary bolts. Used connecting bolts should be checked before mounting. Where there are defects such as scratches or bolts on the bolts or looseness of the bolts, the bolts cannot fit tightly with the threaded holes, and the bolt heads cannot stick to the bearing surface. Observe that the length of the bolts is 2% longer than the standard bolts using the comparison method. . If a certain connecting rod bolt slips, cracks or breaks, it should be replaced in pairs, regardless of whether the other one is intact or not. 2. Wash the bolts and nuts with clean diesel before assembling the connecting rod bolts to avoid misjudged tightening when assembling. The connecting rod bolts and nuts shall be used in sets and shall not be interchanged so as not to reduce the matching accuracy. Use a torque wrench to alternately and evenly tighten the connecting rod bolts to the specified torque during assembly. The specified torque of various engine connecting rod bolts is not the same. In the absence of technical information, the safe torque range can be estimated based on the bolt diameter. Such as M10 connecting rod bolts, the safety torque is 60 ~ 80N.m; M12 bolts are 80 ~ 100Nm; M14 bolts are 100 ~ 120Nm. When bolts are tightened, if the torque of a certain bolt on the same connecting rod is found to exceed the specified value too much, the two connecting rod bolts on the connecting rod should be loosened and re-tightened, instead of merely loosening and tightening excessively. Only bolts, otherwise it will make the bolt uneven. If the crankshaft cannot be moved after the bolt is tightened, the cause must be checked and the connecting rod bolt must not be loosened. When the roundness deviation of the connecting rod journal is too large or the gap between the journal and the bearing is too large, the connecting rod bolt will be subject to alternating impact force during work, and it is easy to prematurely break off. Therefore, the journal must be ground before assembly. Third, the connecting rod bolt locking The fastening method of various types of engine connecting rod bolts are not the same, are introduced in their respective precautions in the lock are as follows: 1. Cotter pin locking. The diameter of the split pin should match the hole diameter on the bolt and must not be too thin or only half of the split pin. After the split pin is locked, the head should be sunk into the slot of the nut, and both ends of the tail should be tightly tightened against the nut, and there must be no cracks or breaks at the bends. Cotter pins can only be used once and must not be replaced with iron nails or iron wires. 2. The locking tab is locked. After the positioning portion of the locking piece is attached to the positioning body, it should be possible to reliably prevent the locking piece from rotating; the curved edge of the locking piece should be tightly attached to the fitting surface of the bolt head. Used cleats must not be repeated in the same place; if the cleats are cracked, they cannot be used. 3. The spring washer is locked. The washer must not be cracked or lose its elasticity. The offset distance (ie, the maximum thickness) at the ends of a common spring washer should not be less than 1.5 times the thickness of the washer. The offset distance between the wave spring washer and the saddle spring washer should not be less than 1.8 times the thickness of the washer. After tightening the bolts, the entire circumference of the washer and the part and the bolt head (or nut) should fit completely. The inner diameter of the washer and the outer diameter of the bolt should be compatible. Two spring washers must not be installed in the same place. 4. The wire is locked. Use galvanized iron wire in accordance with the bolt head hole diameter, instead of ordinary iron wire or copper wire, aluminum wire instead. The direction in which the wire is threaded through the head of the bolt should be the direction in which the bolt is pulled when it is loose. Both ends of the wire should be tightened evenly, twisted properly, and leave 5 to 6 mm at the twisting point. The wire must not have cracks or rust, and when turning the crankshaft after locking, the bend must not be scratched with other parts. 5. Pressure surface self-locking. It uses the surface roughness of the bearing surface of the connecting rod bolt head or nut and the steel connecting rod and connecting rod cover to increase the effective contact area and achieve the purpose of self-locking. When assembling, it should be noted that the surface roughness of the two ends of the connecting rod nut generally differs by two or three grades. Attention must be paid to the positive and negative sides to ensure the self-locking effect. 6. Lock the self-locking nut. This nut has two opposite radial locking grooves and the depth is greater than the screw hole radius. When the nut is tightened on the bolt, under the action of the axial tensile force, the cut groove is elastically deformed so that the pitch is reduced, thereby self-locking. Once the nut is disassembled, it loses its self-locking effect. Before reassembling, it must be clamped properly on a vise, or with a hand hammer, to make the locking groove narrow. When assembling, pay attention: the locking groove end must be downward (non-adhering surface); when the nut grooving has a crack, it must be replaced.