Causes and countermeasures of potted yellow leaves

Potted flowers are subject to improper daily management due to limited cultivation conditions. Yellow flowers are more likely to bloom than other exposed flowers, but normal growth is affected, and the whole plant is dead. Therefore, observations should always be taken during the conservation process to make correct judgments. Cause the cause, take corresponding countermeasures, and promptly correct it.
Yellow pods: First, the young leaves turn light yellow, and then the old leaves appear dark yellow. The reason is excessive watering or poor permeability of soil and pot angstroms, drainage hole plugging, resulting in nitrogen deficiency in the basin, and root rot. Watering should be controlled, often loosening the soil and keeping drainage holes open.
Early yellow: The new leaf color is normal, and the old leaf is dry yellow or crusting from bottom to top. The reason is that there is no watering or watering for a long time, and the root system is dehydrated or even dry. After the discovery, the water was poured once and then the soil was kept moist.
Yellow fertilizer: The new leaves are dark green, thick and bumpy. The old leaves are dry and even yellow. It is due to excessive fertilization or high concentrations, application of fertilizer, resulting in extravasation of plant cell fluid, resulting in the separation of the plasmolysis. Fertilization must be stopped immediately, and part of the fertilizer should be discharged from the drainage hole by increasing the amount of water to be poured.
Thin yellow: it is due to a long period of no fertilization, no basin, soil lack of nutrients, resulting in thin branches, long internodes, thin leaves and yellow. Should be poured in time, replaced with loose fertile soil, in accordance with the needs of plant growth, timely, adequate fertilizer.
Alkali yellow: Some of the flowers like hi acidic soil: such as Camellia, Rhododendron, Gardenia, Prynne, etc., in the northern potted plants, often due to alkaline soil and water texture, resulting in plant leaf color chlorosis, or even yellow off. The acid culture soil should be changed promptly, and the ferrous sulfate solution should be regularly sprayed to water the fertilizer.
Burning yellow: Some negative or neutral flowers, due to strong light, causing leaf burns, yellow-brown spots or yellowing of the whole leaf, should first move to shelter Meng place, and then move to a half-shade or astigmatism after a period of time .
Cold yellow: Some hi warm flowers, due to the long time can not meet the required temperature requirements, the leaf color is also easy to yellow, falling from the bottom up. When you are outdoors, you should move to direct sunlight. When you are wintering indoors, you must increase the temperature.
Hot yellow: Some flowers that are cool and cool at low temperatures, due to inadaptability to high temperature environment, cause yellow leaves to fall off. Ventilation must be improved, shaded properly or placed in the shade, and often sprinkle water on the plants and the surrounding ground to increase air humidity and reduce temperature.
Disease yellow: If the leaves are yellow, accompanied by symptoms such as mosaics, leaf curls, clumping, and shrinkage, it may be caused by viral diseases. Since there is no cure for specific drugs, diseased leaves can be removed in time. In severe cases, diseased plants are dialed and burned to prevent spreading again.
Insect yellow: The leaves appear chlorotic or gray-yellow spots, or the whole leaves yellow-green. Yellow-brown, it is the danger of red spider; leaf color turns yellow, atrophy, shedding, there may be a whitefly damage; leaves yellow or yellow-green spots, plaques, shoots withered, is a scale insect harm. Should be used 20% dicofol 1000 times, 10% permethrin 2000-3000 times, 50% killing pine 1000-1500 times liquid killing, or use other drugs can also be.

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